Infospigot: The Chronicles

Illinois Road Trip: The Eternal Indian, and Other Stories

Last September, our family gathered in Chicago for a memorial for my dad. It's one of those events that seems like it happened both long ago and just yesterday; long ago in that I can't believe that nearly nine months have passed, just yesterday in that some of the experiences of last summer seem so immediate.

Anyway, people came from all points of the compass. We had a short family gathering at Holy Sepulchre Cemetery, just past the southern edge of Chicago, where Dad's ashes were being placed in the same grave where Mark, our brother, who died in 1960, is buried and where Mom, who died in 2003, is also inurned. After our ceremony, we walked around and visited some of Mom's family elsewhere in the cemetery, then we drove back up to my sister Ann's house on the North Side for a memorial--a party, really--with other friends and family.

Early the next day, people started to head home: our older son Eamon and his wife Sakura to New York, my brother John, also to New York, and last Thom, our younger son, back to the Bay Area. That was on Monday, it was already mid-afternoon, traffic back into the city looked like it was backing up on the expressway outside O'Hare. As we left the airport I asked Kate whether she'd just like to go for a drive someplace instead of going back into the city. She was game.

We headed west with no particular destination in mind. But if you go west from Chicago, there's one destination I automatically think of, and that's the Mississippi River. That was one of Dad's favorite trips, and I usually never hesitate to start out on a foolishly long drives, but as we tried to get free of the traffic in the northwestern suburbs, even I had to concede it didn't seem realistic since we had to be back the next day to fly home ourselves.

So then I thought of another place that seemed more reachable: the Black Hawk statue on the Rock River, near the town of Oregon.

Dad took us there when we were kids--it might have been the time he took us on a drive out to White Pines State Park with his mother, a trip during which I remember him getting our new gold Chevy Impala station wagon, complete with a 327-cubic-inch V8, up to 90 miles an hour on Illinois Highway 64. I would have been 13, and what I remember is that we pulled over on Highway 2, which goes up the west bank Rock River from Oregon to Rockford, to look at this statue on a bluff across the water. It made a huge impression--an impassive , blanket-clad stone figure gazing out across the river and off to the west.

So, driving west last September on Illinois Highway 72, I told Kate I thought we could get there before dark and that it would be well worth the trip. Along the way, we stopped to check out a historical marker in a town called Stillman Valley. The site turned out to be the burial place of militia members killed in the first battle of the Black Hawk War of 1832. (Yes, I had heard of Black Hawk's War, but remembered it mostly for the name of its last skirmish, the Battle of Bad Axe, and the fact the brief conflict marked Abraham Lincoln's first and only military service).

Driving on, we hit the Rock River at Byron and turned south. We made a detour so I could take pictures of the big nuclear power plant between Byron and Oregon. And eventually, we made it to Lowden State Park, home of the Black Hawk statue (titled by its creator, sculptor Lorado Taft, "The Eternal Indian"). As we parked, we encountered an older woman sitting in her car and finishing up her dinner, from the McDonald's in Oregon. She directed us to the statue and said she'd be over in a few minutes to tell us about it.

So: I had my camera with me, and I had an audio app on my iPhone that was good enough to record our guide, Betty Croft. That's her picture up above. We talked to her for an hour, until well after dark. It took me until the past week to actually sit down and listen to the audio and figure out what to make of it. Here it is (edited down to four minutes or so):

April 11, 1953

Sixty years ago today: My future mom and dad smooch in full view of their wedding party at the Windermere Hotel, down on the South Side near the Museum of Science and Industry and the University of Chicago. The Windermere: My mom's family, the Hogans, had a history there. I believe my mom's parents, Edward Daniel Hogan and Anne Louise O'Malley, had their wedding reception there, back around 1925. My Uncle Dick's ordination party was held there in 1965. I think I read that the U of C owns it now and has converted it to a residence for students.

Anyway, the picture: It's one of a couple of color snapshots I've seen of the event. There are lots of formal black-and-white wedding pictures, too, showing the wedding party and important family members in various configurations. To me, Dad looks nervous in most of those pictures and Mom looks something I interpret as close to ecstatic. My dad's mother, Otilia Sieverson Brekke, a Norwegian Lutheran, shows a steady lack of warmth for the proceedings. After all, she'd been forced to endure attendance at the Hogans' Irish Catholic parish, St. Kilian's, at 87th and May streets.

On the left margin of this picture is Dad's friend (and best man?) John Lacognata, a fellow musician. I know he and my dad and another guy--who was the other guy?--once drove out to the West Coast from Chicago in a Hudson my dad had bought. I remember Dad showing slides of that trip, complete with a shot showing the car with water bags slung across the front to aid the crossing of one of the Southern California deserts.

On the right of the picture is a woman named Kay, whose last name I can't remember, but whom I think went to Loretto High School with Mom; they would have graduated about 1947. Kay and her husband, Norbert--again, I don't recall a last name--lived out in the south suburbs when we were growing up there; I remember visiting them and not getting along with their kids.

In the center of the picture: Mary Alice Hogan and Stephen Daniel Brekke. She was all of 23; he was 31. What were they thinking? I never talked to them much about their courtship, and uncharacteristically, Mom didn't give me the inside story during some long, wandering, late-night talk. My Dad volunteered after Mom died in 2003 that it was she who asked him out on their first date when they were both working at the Chicago Land Clearance Commission. They went to Schrafft's downtown. There was also the story of how Steve took Mary on a date to Uno's, the original location at Ohio and Wabash. Mary Alice reportedly told Steve she'd never been to Uno's, a pizzeria that allowed patrons to scrawl their names on the walls. Anyway, they get there and are seated. On the wall adjacent to their table, "Mary Alice Hogan" is written in red lipstick. I don't know how Mary Alice explained that.

Anyway, there they are: Norwegian minister's son and the daughter of an Irish-American bank clerk and schoolteacher, getting ready to set sail into joys and sorrows unimaginable, right after they cut the cake.

Roadside Find: Zedonk (or Is It a Donkra?)

Exotic fauna of Sutter County: a zebroid on the hoof (click for larger images).

We're in the bittersweet last day or so of our joint spring break (Kate from the demanding world of public education, me from the somewhat less demanding world of public broadcasting). At the beginning of the week, we went on a mini road trip to see a relatively little-visited natural wonder I'd read about in the paper a few weeks (Feather Falls--more on that later). We wound up spending a day driving up to one of the state's big reservoirs, Lake Oroville, a day hiking, then another day winding our way back down to the Bay Area.

There's a certain part of the Sacramento Valley I've gotten to know from riding a bicycle through it--generally the area on the southern half or so of the valley, from the state capital up to about Chico. The most striking visual feature of that part of the state, almost everyone would agree, is the volcanic remnant rising up from the floor of the valley, known now as the Sutter Buttes. Someone sometime in the distant past--probably Ripley's Believe-It-or-Not, probably in the 1940s--designated the buttes, which rise to a maximum elevation of just over 2,100 feet and cover about 75 square miles, "the smallest mountain range in the world."

One thing about the buttes: though a piece of the central buttes is now public land, access is across private land and thus only possible by appointment--either on a pre-arranged tour or with researchers (a public-radio colleague, Molly Samuel, got in a while back with some biologists studying an animal I had never heard of before: the ringtail). So what the public gets to do, generally, is drive around the perimeter. So Wednesday, that's what we did, retracing a path I've ridden a few times in the past. West of Yuba City, just outside the little town of Sutter, we had our own exotic animal encounter.

Passing a farmyard, Kate called out, "Is that a zebra?" I missed whatever she had seen, but when I looked over, I saw a couple of llamas (more and more common on ranches here) and, very uncommon, a camel. A camel? A zebra? I turned around to take a look.

The "zebra" was pretty clearly a hybrid of some kind--probably a cross between a zebra and a donkey. She, or perhaps he, certainly looked like a donkey and had the docile, inquisitive nature of a donkey, coming right over to the fence to check out Scout (a.k.a The Dog). We checked out some of the other animals on the premises--some odd-looking goats, a pygmy donkey of some sort, the llamas, a few horses, the aforementioned camel, and a pack of furious dogs that seemed to contain at least one labradoodle.

Wikipedia says zebra/equine hybrids--known generally as zebroids--have a long history and even drew Darwin's attention. The names for the crosses are many, including zonkey, donkra, zedonk, zebonkey, zebronkey, zebrinny, zebrula, zebrass, and zebadonk. I came up with my own term: variegated ass.

Richard Nixon and Me

My mom's older brother, Bill Hogan, getting carried off to a paddy wagon during a demonstration in mid-1960s Chicago. His is one of two January 9 birthdays I think of every year. (Photo by way of my brother Chris.)

It's Richard Nixon's one hundredth birthday today. I always remember the date because it's the same, ironically, as that of my Uncle Bill, a far-left-wing Roman Catholic priest (born in Chicago 14 years after the future president) who spent much of Nixon's one-term-plus in office marching against him.

Nixon was a dominant figure in my consciousness growing up. My mom was a Democratic precinct captain in Park Forest, one of Chicago's far southern suburbs, during the 1960 presidential campaign. She was Irish-American, Catholic, and liberal, and crazy about John F. Kennedy. She got hold of what I remember being a huge Kennedy poster, maybe four feet by six feet, and put it up in the living-room picture window. My dad thought it might invite a rock through the window.

Late in the campaign, Nixon stopped in Park Forest, then a rather liberal pocket of the suburbs, and we went to see him. As I remember it, he spoke from a platform set up near the clock tower in the center of the Park Forest Plaza, one of Chicagoland's first shopping malls. After my dad found a spot in the packed parking lot and we were walking toward the plaza, someone who was leaving the event handed us several Kennedy signs on sticks. Mom and Dad gave the placards to me and my brothers, John and Chris. They wanted us to go up close to the stage and wave the signs while Nixon spoke. I was six. I was aware we were involved in some kind of prank, and I was happy to go along. We got up there, NIxon came on, and we started waving the signs. I don't remember what he said, except for one thing. "I see a lot of you with Kennedy signs out there," he remarked. "And I just hope you change your minds by Election Day."

Mom really disliked Nixon. I remember her talking about his highly publicized attempt to save a home he was renting in Los Angeles in November 1961. Nixon got up on the roof and started spraying it down with a garden hose as the wind-driven wildfire fire approached; Mom saw Nixon's act as grandstanding. She also remarked on what a bad sport he was when he declared "you won't have Nixon to kick around anymore" after losing the 1962 governor's election in California.

And then, of course, he came back.

I guess it's safe to say now that I'm the one who assassinated him. That's right. I had a very detailed dream when I was about 16 that I shot Nixon. (Another dream I remember from my adolescence involved witnessing Indira Gandhi's hanging by mob in India; still another involved some sort of romantic get-together with Joan Baez; I woke the next morning to encounter a story in the paper in which she declared she was bisexual.)

I'm guessing the Nixon dream occurred some time in the spring of 1970 or so, because it contained a shred of an event that really happened. In May of that year, there was a huge protest in Washington in reaction to Nixon's expansion of the Vietnam War to Cambodia and Laos and the subsequent killing of student protesters at Kent State (in Ohio) and Jackson State (in Mississippi). With the capital packed with angry students, Nixon did something that's unimaginable today: He went out before dawn one morning, accompanied only by a driver, to visit some of the protesters at the Lincoln Memorial (I find his willingness to go out and talk as amazing to contemplate as Lincoln's wandering around Washington unprotected during most of the Civil War).

In my dream, I was looking through a telescopic sight as Nixon arrived at the Lincoln Memorial in a military jeep, surrounded by army guys. A hot, sunny day. He was unshaven and sweaty looking--haggard--wearing a white dress shirt and black slacks, but in shirtsleeves. I understood there'd been a coup of some kind, and he was arriving at the Lincoln Memorial to give a speech announcing--what? That the military was taking over, I guess. He went up the memorial steps to speak, but before he said a word I shot him.

I escaped the area, then found myself in my grandmother's living room--my dad's mother's house--on the North Side of Chicago. The TV was on--a small black-and-white model. One clip was being played over and over: The moment Nixon was shot, then falling. The image's viewpoint was the same as mine through the telescopic sight. I turned away from the TV, glanced out the window, and saw figures moving behind cars parked at the curb. Police. I'd been tracked down, and they were sure to kill me.

And that's all I remember of that dream.

Several years later, in waking life, I hitchhiked east to see if I could get into the Senate Watergate hearings. I was short on money and unprepared for how much a hotel cost in Washington, so I wound up doing something else you can't imagine anymore: I slept out with my pathetic little blanket on the grounds of the Washington Monument. Sleeping outdoors did assure I'd get up early for the predawn distribution of tickets to the day's hearing. I did get in, and what I remember was Dick Cavett sitting in a seat a few rows in front of where I stood, at the back of the Senate Caucus Room (I'm guessing he hadn't needed to show up at 5 in the morning for the ticket giveaway).

The very next year, I thumbed out to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia and was in a campground there the night Nixon resigned. After that, there was a long hiatus in our relationship, broken by the occasional TV interview (his) or book (his) or embarrassing presidential tape (his) or opera (a Berkeley composer's). In 1994, we went down to the Nixon Library and Museum in Yorba Linda a couple of weeks after his funeral. If you're down there, it's worth a stop just to see how thoroughly a man's career can be sanitized.

For today, all that's ancient history. Richard Milhous Nixon: Happy 100th birthday.

And in passing, below is another piece of ancient history I've been sitting on. It's the first piece I ever wrote for a daily paper, 40 years ago last month. As you can see, my theme was Nixon then, too. (Also there's the hair. And the byline. But those are stories for another day. Click for a larger, and perhaps readable, image.)

'Always on Christmas Night ...'

The closing lines of "A Child's Christmas in Wales." My favorite part of one of my favorite poems. Merry Christmas, wherever you are on this Christmas night.

"... Always on Christmas night there was music.
An uncle played the fiddle, a cousin sang
'Cherry Ripe,' and another uncle sang 'Drake's Drum.'
It was very warm in the little house.
Auntie Hannah, who had got on to the parsnip
wine, sang a song about Bleeding Hearts and Death,
and then another in which she said her heart
was like a Bird's Nest; and then everybody
laughed again; and then I went to bed.

"Looking out my bedroom window, out into
the moonlight and the unending smoke-colored snow,
I could see the lights in the windows
of all the other houses on our hill and hear
the music rising from them up the long, steadily
falling night. I turned the gas down, I got
into bed. I said some words to the close and
holy darkness, and then I slept."

The Domestic Dialogues

An immortal household exchange from the distant past:

Kate to one of the kids: I can't play right now. I'm not here just to entertain you.

Kid: Why are you here, then?

(Kate and Dan laugh.)

Kid: No--really. Why?

Portrait: Mom, 1964

My sister Ann reminded me, by way of a Facebook post, that yesterday, the 26th, was Mom's birthday. She would have been 83. That's her in a shot my dad took in May 1964, when she was 34. She's posing in our Park Forest living room, and I think the occasion was that Dad was trying out a camera he had bought recently, a Minolta twin-lens reflex model. There's a series of other shots taken the same time; my brother Chris scanned them after Dad died earlier this years.

So much of this scene is evocative and immediate: The painting, by a family friend, was a fixture in every place we lived (and now hangs in Ann's house). I know Mom was sitting on a slat bench that also made it from house to house through our infrequent relocations (it's at Ann's or Chris's now). The vase of pussy willows over Mom's right shoulder--I don't know where that came from. But I can see the living room, with a black linoleum floor, half-paneled in redwood, a set of bookshelves Dad had installed, the closet where his stereo system resided, the Danish modern chairs and love seat and round coffee table, the doorway into the kitchen, the hallway back to our bedrooms, the picture window looking out onto the lawn, which sloped down to the street, bordered on the far side by a field and woods.

And part of this scene feels odd and distant, almost false: There's a tension in Mom's pose, for one thing. She had a way of putting on a face sometimes in a way that I don't see in photos taken much earlier or much later in her life. I might be seeing something that's not really there, but I know what she and my dad had been through at this point: raising five kids, for one thing, and the death of one of them, and other troubles that I feel are barely contained beneath this serene-looking scene.

And also I know what's to come for her. She's about to go into psychoanalysis, get a driver's license, join Operation Head Start, move out to the woods into a new home, become a foster parent to untold numbers of stray dogs and cats, and help organize a campaign to save the forest from an ambitious local developer. She's going to use her considerable intellect and talents as a newspaper reporter, go back to school, and work in several other challenging jobs. She's also about to confront deep and lingering depression, the reality of a husband and brother sinking deep into alcoholism, several angry adolescent boys and a daughter who was pushed into the background by all of the above.

It feels like all that is hiding inside the frame here, somewhere behind that composed smile.

Today's Top Project

A few days ago, our son Thom told me a soldering iron would be arriving at our house via UPS. "A soldering iron?" I probably replied. He said he had a project he wanted to do--assembling some small external iPhone microphone kits--and we needed the soldering iron for that.

So, today was the weekend, and Thom came over, and we spent part of the afternoon and early evening assembling the mics. I was enthusiastic because I (and many, many others) have started playing around with different ways of recording sound on the iPhone for radio story production. One of the big issues, though, is controlling distortion in loud environments. This microphone--it's called a bootlegMIC and was designed by Open Music Labs--plugs into the phone's headphone jack. Essentially, it's an attenuator--it uses a resistor to reduce the audio signal the phone's built-in mic has to handle and thus avoid distortion.

Thom made one, and it seemed to work fine. I built mine, with his assistance (the last time I handled a soldering iron=maybe never). Thom built a third mic (above) for a friend. In the picture, he's holding the jack end of the device; the microphone is at top.

So Long, Moby

Moby, the van, visits Yosemite's White Wolf Campground in August 2010.

I'm reading a book right now called "Shop Class as Soulcraft," by Matthew B. Crawford. It makes a convincing argument that we've largely banished what used to be called "the manual arts"--generally speaking, skills developed using tools, making stuff, and fixing stuff--at a large cost in lost competence and career opportunity and, in both tangible and intangible ways, engagement with our world of machines.

There's a lot more to the book than that (if you want a sample, here's the original essay upon which it's based). For instance, it questions some of the essential assumptions of current assumptions about the purpose of educations and the role of people in the economy. But the part that immediately resonates with me is the piece about learning to fix things yourself, and actually doing the fixing.

It's not that I don't know how to fix some stuff. I've done a reasonable amount of work on my own bicycles and have even (it's a sensitive enough job I think of it as "even") overhauled a bottom bracket. Once upon a time I did some of the demolition work on what seemed at the time a very ambitious kitchen remodel. Of course, the part some friends still remember is how long our kitchen was a construction zone, with no ceiling and a nice view right up through the joists to the rafters (we eventually hired folks and got some help from skilled neighbors to finish the job).

For the most part, a complicated fix is a fix that I feel most comfortable handing to someone else, especially when it comes to cars. I'm competent to check the oil (and have changed it once or twice, though, wow, it seems like oil filters are getting harder and harder to reach). I have replaced light bulbs and whole light units. I take pride in having handled my own tire chains in the slush and snow (once--and they stayed on). I know how to jump-start a car. When the Number 1 cylinder on our Toyota Echo started missing on a trip out to California from Chicago with my brother, I was able to follow the mechanic's explanation of what was wrong (and what was needed to fix it permanently, as opposed to the temporary repair we got that's still in place) despite his Texas Panhandle accent. But like most of us, I've never done a brake job or tuned up a car (is that something that's still done?) or replaced a belt, much less removed and torn down and rebuilt an engine.

All of that became relevant in the last few weeks when our semi-beloved 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE (six-cylinder, 3.3-liter engine), which had performed relatively faithfully despite getting pushed hard for much of its life, suddenly developed a critical illness. For most of its fourteen and a half years and 208,515 miles, the most trouble it had given us was a transmission that balked at long mountain grades. That issue appeared during a drive up to Eugene, Oregon, in 2008, when at 70 mph on a long 6 or 7 percent grade into the town of Mount Shasta, the van suddenly shifted into a lower gear, which led to the engine turning at much higher RPM, which forced me to slow down, which led to the engine shifting into an even lower gear, which forced me to slow down even more. Luckily, I was coming to an exit, got off the highway, and managed to find a garage in town that quickly and cheaply diagnosed the problem via computer: a solenoid inside the transmission was fouled, and since the car worked fine on a test drive, we'd probably be OK (we were, except for one subsequent trip into the Sierra two years later). Aside from that, and the failure of a power steering pump once when I was driving home with a couple other cyclists after a 190-mile ride in the rain, the only real complaint I had with the car was its lousy around-town gas mileage.

But last month, the van suddenly overheated one morning when Kate was driving it to school. We had it towed to the garage that had been taking care of it the last five or six years. I figured that the water pump had finally quit. But the news was worse: a cracked head gasket. Fixing it would require taking the engine apart and installing a new gasket (and hoping that the head hadn't warped as the result of the overheating that probably cracked the gasket). It would be a big-ticket item to fix--minimum $1,500, probably, and more than we figured the car was worth (though checking now, the Kelley Blue Book price on our wreck is $2,500).

Our first thought was to donate the van to some worthy organization. I like the one up in Marin County that's working to save the last wild coho salmon stream on our part of the coast. But Kate had another idea. A family at her school needed a car. The mom, Mirian, volunteers a lot, and the dad, Carlos, is a competent and confident mechanic. They came over and took a look at the van, and Carlos thought it would be no sweat to get it running again. He also wasn't put off by the long list of minor maladies we'd been living with--a cracked windshield, a windshield washer that no longer works, a rear vent window that no longer opens, one pretty significant dent where I backed into a tree, paint peeling from the roof, and the fact the car has its original transmission, which is at double its predicted life. He took in the list of problems one by one and smiled--he'd fix them.

I admit I had a moment, just a moment, where I thought, "Gee, maybe I ought to be able to take this on." But the truth is--"Shop Class as Soulcraft" notwithstanding--getting this car back on the road would probably be a project that for me would last for years, anyway.

So today, Carlos came with a tow truck and took the van away. I went out and shot pictures of the departure, the end of our Grand Caravan Era. The van, which we nicknamed Moby when we bought it (because we also had a Ford Escort, nicknamed Toby), had made one cross-country trip; Eamon and I drove it to Chicago in June 2004 to help my dad move (we left at 5:30 on a Saturday morning and made it into Chicago at 10:30 Sunday night). I drove it up to Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, back in 2007 with my friend, Pete, so we could test-ride the bike circuit used by the Ironman triathlon there (Pete did the race in 2008 and 2009). The van made more than two dozen trips back and forth to Eugene (1,025 miles round trip) when Thom was at the University of Oregon; we hauled stuff up there for his move-in in 2005 and back down when he graduated in '08. Kate was driving the van on an excursion to Carrizo Plain back in May 2006 on the trip where she encountered and wound up adopting Scout (aka The Dog); he was initially too weak to get up into the car by himself. The last big trip we took in the van was in August 2010, when we went car camping in the Sierra (including a night in the Yosemite high country, pictured above) and did some extended bushwhacking along some Forest Service roads).

It's gone, and hopefully it has more miles and adventures ahead for Carlos, Mirian, and their family.

Family Group

When I was back in Chicago following my dad's passing in late July, I went for a couple long walks from my sister Ann's house to local cemeteries. It's amazing how quickly you can cover six or seven or eight miles after you've set out for a stroll up there.

One day I wound up in Rosehill Cemetery, one of Chicago's oldest, between Western and Ravenswood south of Peterson. Another day I walked up to Calvary Cemetery, a Roman Catholic establishment on the southern edge of Evanston that stretches between Lake Michigan on the east to Chicago Road on the west.

The Calvary visit was late in the day. On the way up there, I walked past a railroad viaduct that had some attractive sunlight shining through it. I stopped to see if I could get a picture that captured the light and shadows (I didn't get anything worth keeping). What I didn't spot when I first started shooting was a group of people on the sidewalk on the other side of the passage--two women, a man, and a girl of about 10. "You want to take my picture?" one of the women asked. I didn't understand what she was saying and didn't respond, so she repeated the question. "Sure, I'll take your picture." The man hung back, but the women and the girl posed briefly. I took a total of four or five shots.

I got an email address from one of the women; I sent these pictures there, though I never heard anything back. Unfortunately, I didn't get any names, even first names.